Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Lonely Planet


Staring at the lights of the tavern, I wondered who might choose to live in such a dinky, do-nothing town. From what I’d seen, it was nothing more than a collection of tract houses built around a convenience store. The landscape was pretty enough; you might pass through and admire the mountains, but wouldn’t a person then move on to someplace more important? Travel was supposed to broaden your mind, but… it had a way of depressing me. The more places I went, the more I realized I didn’t matter to anyone except the family I’d left behind—and who knew them besides their friends and neighbors in a town just as pointless as this one? Raleigh would be granted a larger dot on the map, but when seen as a whole, the multitude of strange towns and cities conspired to nullify my shaky myth of self-importance. -David Sedaris


Interesting thought, Mr. Sedaris. I will admit I’ve had this feeling myself—what does all this travel mean? Who really cares that I’ve been to this random village in Sierra Leone and that random town in Thailand? Will these experiences really change my life, or are they some part of a selfish quest of self-discovery, on which path I will actually discover nothing?

I’ve never traveled alone, per se. Every extra-US experience I’ve had has included at least two other travelers besides myself. That doesn’t, however, necessarily mean I haven’t felt alone at times. Everyone experiences traveling differently. To one person, one place could be life-changing, compelling one to follow a path that had otherwise been undiscovered. This same place could be a mere comma in someone else’s story. Fortunately, most of my journeys have meant something to me, have changed me or clarified certain thoughts in some shape or form. But, like the sea receding with the tide, these seemingly permanent changes also ebb and flow.

Take my time in Africa, for example. Immediately following my two week conference, I vowed to return to the continent as soon as possible, to relinquish my possessions and live an impoverished life in a small village with no other care in the world than to help the community in any way I could. For the next month, my conviction was strong; after that, however, this idea slowly retreated to some deeper recess of my mind. It only resurfaces when I read an article on the BBC concerning a specific instance of government corruption or human rights abuses—but nothing is as strong as that one month. Sure, I still see myself back on the Dark Continent, but there’s no hurry. In the meantime, I’ll enjoy the conveniences of modern society, electricity and all.

I can already feel some of my expectations of my life-changing Thailand experience depleting. For starters, I now know that I will never become a teacher. Not that I was truly expecting to have a burning desire to teach forever, but I figured it would at least give me an idea of how I wanted to help people, not simply that I want to. I’m also realizing that assimilating into a culture fully, true participant observation, is proving much more difficult than I’ve been led to believe in my anthropology courses. Sure, I work in Phanom, I live in Phanom, I eat the same foods and avoid the same cultural taboos as a native from Phanom. But the barrier still exists. Most conversations with the locals rarely extend beyond “Hello, how are you? I love it here, thanks for asking.” I feel as if I’m treated like a tourist, not a member—and I know that most of the blame lies with me. There’s an intimidation factor, there’s a language barrier, there’s a fear of not living up to local expectations of farang behavior—save linguistics, I’m sure the other two are irrational thoughts. But I still can’t seem to shake it.

I’ve got to get over my habit of comparing my experience to others’ as well. Like, for example, Steed and Michelle seem to have broken the tourist barrier quite well. They each have Filipino friends and have Thais to call to take them out at night, facts of which I’m both envious and curious as to how they matriculated. I’ve always been pretty good at knowing what I want, not so much at how to get it. I don’t want to make the effort of making new friends, for fear of overstepping my boundaries, or of making a bad impression. Somewhat irrational, yes. Easily avoidable—for me, no.

To make the most of my time here, I’ve got to stop looking for opportunity and start making opportunities. You’d think that in 23 years of living I would’ve figured that out by now. Otherwise, my travels abroad won’t even matter to “the family I’ve left behind”—they won’t matter to me, either.

Monday, June 8, 2009

LOOK AT MY STRIPED SHIRT!

This has absolutely zero percent to do with Thailand, but I stumbled across it the other day. Nostalgia level: 6.


Look at my button down striped shirt! Fucking look at it! This shirt means one thing! I'm coming home with some pussy tonight! That's right! It's been a long week at the office and it's time to blow off a little steam! I am a Junior Vice President! I have business cards that say "Junior Vice President" on them! They're glossy and magnificent! Here! Have one! Take it!

My boys are coming out with me tonight! They all have striped shirts too!

I figure we'll kick off the night with some Golden Tee! I am going to smack the shit out of that little white ball! It's going to be so fucking loud! I'll bet I can drive that pretend golf ball 600 fucking yards tonight! I'm that fucking pumped!

I can almost taste those Jager Bombs right now! I fucking love Red Bull! I put it on my God damned cereal! I'm crushing one right now!

I'm thinking about buying a boat this year!

Party Fuel
I'm gonna fight someone tonight! I pray to God someone makes eye contact with me! I will beat his ass! And God help him if he gets any blood on my striped shirt! If he does, I'll scrub it out with his dick and some bleach! I mean it!

I'm gonna grind on girls asses tonight! You heard me! When I see a group of girls dancing in a circle, I will select the most attractive one and dry hump her until it hurts! I will rub my cock against her so that she can feel my throbbing hard on!

I will valet tonight!

I will treat the valet with contempt and make sure that he knows that I am superior to him in life! I will tell him to "Take it easy on the brakes, Champ"!

I will talk to people I don't know about my job tonight! They will all know that I am an important man! I will call female bartenders "Babe" and male bartenders "Chief"!

When I do not hook up with a girl at that club, I will say that the place is "full of skanks"! We will wait in a long line to go to another bar only to strike out again!

I will give up and decide to order a gyro off of a street vendor! I will make fun of him to my friends for being foreign! I will look ridiculous purchasing my gyro because people will be able to tell by my striped shirt and tinted sunglasses that I struck out and am settling for a gyro!

I will make one last attempt to hook up by trying to coax two big girls who are also ordering gyros to coming back to my place for "after hours"! When they say no I will make fun of them for being fat! I will leave!

When I get home I will go to the bathroom and hold the straight razor to my wrist again! I will gently drag the razor laterally against my vein, making sure not to actually cut myself!

I will then go to my room and pass out! I will need some shut eye so that I'll be ready to fucking party again tomorrow!

Paradise is Just a Bus (and another bus, and a ferry, and a tuk-tuk) Ride Away!


I’m no longer at the beach. Therefore, I am depressed.

Ko Si Chang this weekend was fantastic. We didn’t stay at the most glamorous place, but it was relatively cheap and was right up the street from Pan and David’s, a delicious restaurant that had REAL wine and REAL cheddar cheese. Hallelujah! Pretty sure we spent just as much at this restaurant as we did to stay in our hostel (hotel? bungalow?) for two nights.

Upon arriving on the Ko Loi ferry, which had its share of ups and downs (literally, causing Tara to become atrociously seasick), we took a tuk-tuk to Jeff’s Bungalows, up a steep and winding hill in a small community. We walked up to the bungalows, expecting there to be a check-in point—nope, not at Jeff’s. After about five minutes of wandering and wondering, an older woman walked up to us, opened our door, gave us towels and waters and sodas, and tried to tell us how much it cost, which we tried to understand in our broken Thai. Thirteen hundred baht? Two nights? Ok, ok, here’s 2000. Mai? Why mai? Ohhh, exact change. Chai chai chai…I pulled out 300 baht which, with my 1000, paid for the room. Tara owed me—for the room, for cleaning up her puke with my beach towel (she used all the laundry detergent before saying “oops, sorry, your towel…”), and for my hunger and sober state. Well, ok, the last two points may be an exaggeration. Whatev.

After eating fries, garlic bread, fried rice, and spaghetti—a carb feast that was too enjoyable to feel any guilt—and imbibing a few Leos and a Chang, I happily fell asleep with the intent of waking up and beaching it the whole next day. Which is exactly what we did.

8:30 am
Wake up. Get dressed. Watch trashy TV, in English! MTV shows!

10:00 am
Head to Pan and David’s. Eat waffles. Eat eggs. Drink espresso—oh my god, REAL espresso! Call tuk-tuk. Head to Haad Tham Pang.

11:30 am
Pick a table under the umbrellas. Order a Chang—big bottle, no can. Watch the rain—wait, RAIN?!?!?! That does not fit into my tanning plans. Eff you, rain. Go away!

12:30 pm
Hey, rain, thanks for listening! Sawasdee ka, sun! Oh, hey there, clear waters and warm sand! Checkbin, please. Kop kun kaaaaaa.

2:00 pm
Oh, Tara, you’re hungry? Mmm ok, I bet lunch won’t take too long. I want to continue to beach while the sun is still out

4:00 pm
One giant Chang, pad see ew, and a plate of wings later, still no checkbin. Damn. There goes the rest of my beach day. Must come back tomorrow.

4:15 pm
Back at the bungalow. Watching TV. The Office? Check. Greek? Oh hellz yes. Love my trashy TV, in Thailand, on a random island in the Gulf of Thailand. And relaxation. Yes, relaxation…

7:00 pm
Back to Pan and David’s. A glass of limeade, a glass of house red, a cheddar and veggie sandwich on a real baguette. Holy gee, so so good! I’m tired. We should head back, gotta wake up early tomorrow and catch the sun before it rains.

8:30 pm
Oh my god, Live Free or Die Hard is already on TV in Thailand?! Stay…awake…ok, maybe not. Go to sleep. Stop watching TV, you’re on an island.

9:00 am
Wake up. Get dressed. Pack. I don’t want to leave…

10:30 am
Pan and David’s yet again. Cheese and eggs and French pressed coffee. This is the best. Breakfast. Ever. Pay, call tuk-tuk. “Haad Tham Pang, sir!”

11:30 am
Wow, it’s really sunny today. The weather is perfect. What a nice breeze, beautiful water, perfect crowd. Hey, check out the monks on the beach! Take a picture. Lather up. iPod on. Chillax.

1:00 pm
Shit, the tuk-tuk driver is coming back in half an hour. Internally cry. Eat vegetable fried rice, grab a giant water for the road. Goodbye, beautiful beach.

2:00 pm
Thanks, tuk-tuk driver! I will assuredly keep your number for next time. Thank you for not overcharging us on our way back to the pier. Now we must head back to the mainland, back to the buses, back to Phanom, back to real life.

6:30 pm
Ugh, back in Phanom. Where’s the ocean? The sand? The view? I’m not happy. At least I didn’t bring back a sunburn. Til next time, Ko Si Chang, til next time.

Perhaps this beautiful weekend is the reason I was so cranky this morning. I yelled—literally screamed—at the EP 1 kids this morning to shut up and listen. I think I scared them. I’m probably no longer their favorite teacher. Well, perhaps they’ll listen to me now, instead of persuading me to jump rope in lieu of learning about occupations. Smart kids—they know the important things in life. Sanook, no? I left my sanook on the island. I must get it back. This weekend, perhaps…or maybe I’ll find some new sanook in another undiscovered part of this country. This beautiful, friendly, green, lush, sexy country.